The Occhipintis, Guisto at Cos Vineyards and Arianna at Occhipinti Vineyards are my favorite Southern Sicilian wine makers. Whether Nero D’Avola, Frappato, Cerasuola or blends, this family has the taste of place and challenges my view of Sicilian wine making. All vineyards are biodynamic and their creative blending of old and new and wildly unusual, organic and standard techniques are keeping our palates guessing.
SP68 from Occhipinti is Nero D’Avola and Frappato, labeled as a blend rather than a Cerasuola, I’m presuming, as it doesn’t meet DOCG rules, for 60/40 Nero D’Avola/Frappato. This wine may not meet DOCG classifications but it is ever so naturally rich and manages to couple complexity with a fun and easy-to-drink palate.
Arianna has challenged us with organic tastes and unusual twists to traditional techniques but this vintage, while biodynamic, is more about taste, less about technique and just a great drinking wine. SP68, named after a highway near the vineyard, tastes pure and crisp and focused and dismisses any notion that Sicily is a lesser cousin of either Tuscany or Piedmont.
At $21.99 a bottle from Chambers Street Wines, this seems almost too little for this balanced, ruby red delight with a finish that just won’t stop. This is a steal and a must try.
