Most people head to Mexico and drink Mojitas.
We mixed up a few, but for our annual family Spring Break in Tulum, it’s about wine and the natural best at that.
Tulum is all about being in the zone. Wonderful, refreshing and not-your-standard fare is the rule.
The setting:
Hot and humid to the max. Hammocks under the palms. Fish and more fish on the grill. Tacos of every sort. Cerviche and guacamole every day.
Basically anything you can wrap in a banana leave and put in grilled flatbread.
The wine:
Interesting is the rule. Delicious is the grade.
This year we nailed it. The most diverse and varied, the most economical and the most natural.
Best twelve beach pack ever.
I’ll recap with an eye towards choices over time. They are all winners.
–>Three choices from the Jura
Evelyne and Pascal Clairet from Domaine de la Tournelle in Arbois stole the show with their 2010 Terre de Gryphées Chardonnay ($27). Those who say that the Jura is an acquired taste are just plain wrong.
This chard is as unique and terroir-expressive as it is delicious. Wine geek or no, this is a head nodder with undeniable satisfaction.
Second year running on the Poulsard side was Ludwig Bindernagel’s 2010 Les Chais du Vieux Bourg ($34). This German newcomer to the Jura just nails it. Light with a rich body, layered and lovely, a larger than life bouquet for such a delicate wine.
Puffeney made the cut this trip. His 2011 Les Berangeres Trousseau ($35) was the third Jura bottle. The family loved it. I found it a bit austere with a hard edge but quaffable nonetheless.
–>A touch of Sicily and anfora with Giusto Occhipinti’s COS Pithos
COS makes the trek yearly. The 2012 COS Pithos IGT ($31) Cerrasuolo Frappato/Nero D’Avola blend was as expected–delicious and unassuming.
Lightly chilled, delicate and satisfying are its hallmarks. Giusto is the first winemaker I ever tasted that fermented in Anfora and a personal hero and friend. This wine nails it in just about every category
–>Gruner from Nikolaihof is as good as it gets
I love this vineyard. Natural. Bio-D. Ancient. As crisp and unique a Gruner Veltliner as you can find. This year (the third appearance of Nikolaihof) we switched to the 2012 Hefeabzug Gruner Veltliner ($25). A winner.
–>More bubbles make the cut
Bubbles are an occasion in their own right. Two bottles made the trip with us.
The first Cava to cross the border was the 2011 Raventos i Blanc de Nit Rose Brut Conca Del Riu Anoia ($22). Elegant, smokey citrus from the Monastrell grape. We had it with a breakfast/brunch on the first morning. Yum!
The Filaine NV Brut ler Cru Damery Cuvee Speciale ($49) was the priciest of the bottles and a special treat. Creamy and classical. A Pinot Noir/ Chardonnay/ Pinot Meunier blend of 2009 and 2010 grapes was oh so ripe and finely moused and bubbly crisp. This was brought for a birthday and it crushed expectations.
–>A bit of Alpine Savoie at the Mexican seaside
I’ve fallen hard to this region, the producers and varietals. I could have brought a half case of just these whites.
I tasted with Gonon recently and his 2012 Vin de France Chasselas Vieilles Vignes ($25) is well—a dream. Subtle and herbal with smacks of fruit. I so love this bottle. So did everyone.
I’m a long-term Belluard fan. His 2012 Grandes Jorasses Altesse ($34) is fresh, mineral, crips, light and delicious. I had sent this bottle as presents earlier in the year. It’s a family tradition already.
Next to the Jura–in fact Savoie is Jura adjacent–this is fast becoming my favorite region.
–>New world naturalists make the trip
A first for this vacations–an Oregon Pinot Noir and a California Grenache/Mourvedre blend.
I tasted the 2009 Montebruno Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir ($25) with the winemaker Joe Pedicini earlier in the year. Bio-D, a light effervescence and deep flavor are its traits. Served lightly chilled in water glasses on the terrace overlooking the sea was a crowd pleaser.
Hank Beckmyer from La Clarine Farms is a favorite of mine for the brilliance and ease of his wines. A Grenache and Morvedre blend at km 9.2 in Tulum? I say, hell yes!
The 2012 Sierra Josephine & Mariposa ($25) is a beautifully balanced and structured, tannin-laden bottle. I did chill it slightly and with some home made Quesadillas and Cerviche, it was a killer.
Not a hint of sulfur added in these. Not a touch of funk. Freaking lovely natural wines!
–>Wrapping up with a Cotes de Provence Rose
From the selections of my friend David Lillie was a Les Fouques 2012 Aubigue Rose ($13!).
This blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, is almost pale white, shot with pepper, light on the palate, dreamy on the nose and perfect on the hammock.
Small producers all.
These wines are very small productions and go in and out of stock. Some are available at Chambers Street Wines and online through other small specialty shops. Shop the producer if not the vintage.
I will wager a free bottle on me for long-term readers that these will delight.
A thank you to my friends Sophie Barrett and Ariana Rolich of Chambers Street Wines for making the process of choosing almost equal to the drinking.
Some photos to capture the joy of this place along with the wine.
Daily feast.
Playtime in between resting and sipping.
Hammock is up and to the right.
