I’m a big fan of Beaujolais…and nothing speaks to early spring and lighter fare more than a bottle of rich and layered organic Beaujolais from the hands of a master winemaker.
The Morgan Gang of Five are the winemakers who have transformed the world’s image of Beaujolais through their remarkable organic wines. They are Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thevenet and Georges Descombes. As a group, they are responsible for bringing credibility and recognition to Beaujolais as a distinct wine region of its own, rather than simply the southern-most part of Burgundy. And they’ve brought a doubting wine world to an appreciation of the Gamay grape as a legitimate cousin of the Burgundian Pinot Noir.
Damien Coquelet, the winemaker behind this luscious bottle of Coquelet 2008 Chiroubles Vielles Vignes, is the 21-year old step son of George’s Descombes. If this bottle is any indication, he promises to become a sixth member to this knightly roundtable of taste and his father’s heir apparent. There is little information on Damien and no picture of him was available. However, we do know that the old vine Gamay grapes from which this bottle is vinified are from his father’s prize vineyards in Chiroubles.
First, some demystification of the label as this one, even in the complex confusion of French wine labels needs an interpreter.
I’ll start at the top:
- Chiroubles. One of the 12 Beaujolais Crus (basically village appellations) where the vineyards are at some of the highest altitudes among the Cru Beaujolais. Chiroubles Crus are known for their delicate and rich bouquets.
- Vieilles vignes. Old Vines. Vines can grow for up to 120 years. 40+-year-old vines are old and concentrated and rich. Great Beaujolais come from these ancient vines.
- D. Coquelet. That’s Damien Coquelet, the winemaker, step son of Georges Descombes.
- Vermont 69901 Villie-Morgan. That is the physical address of the vineyard.
Label hieroglyphics aside, this is a remarkable bottle of wine. It represents the best of Chiroubles and the epitome of Beaujolais. Earthy. Complex. Strongly aromatic.
In the glass, this wine drinks pure with a velvety smooth mouth. Juicy with just enough acidity to carry the depth of flavor.
At $26 a bottle, this is a great value and not to be missed.
Available from Chambers Street Wines in TriBeCa, NYC.
