My fascination with the wines of the Piedmont region is growing. And I’m fast becoming intoxicated by the chameleon-like diversity of the Nebbiolo grape.
Barolos, Barbarescos and Nebbiolo varietals are all made from the identical grape, in very close proximity geographically, but are distinctly different from one another. Not subtly, but dramatically.
I’ve always understand terroir, but now I can truly taste it!
This shock of recognition came over a bottle of Barbaresco Cascina Crosa from the hands of the late master Pelissero Pasquale. A self proclaimed ‘farmer’ and one of the first producers in Neive, he produced wine only for family and neighbors. Some of it is dribbling out and made its way to my local wine shop in NYC.
A thankful find of flavor.
The ’04 Barbaresco Cascina Crosa is a pleasure and surprise. It is less complex than Nebbiolo D’Alba from Cappellano, but rich, concentrated, aromatic and fruit forward. It tastes young but not rough, rich without being saturated and full of flavor without being overdone. And soft soft tannins that I can’t place in any other wine, Nebbiolo or not.
A terrific wine with food or a chunk of cheese or pasta…or just about anything.
Technically the Nebbiolo grape stock in Barolo and Barbaresco are identical. It is completely a function of place, of terroir, that creates the difference. Less than 10 miles from the heart of Barolo wine country, Pasquale’s hilltop vineyard is a unique microclimate. The grapes ripen earlier, which drives shorter fermentation and maceration periods. It is the soil and climate which mandates the winemaking and defines the character of the wine.
The result is a completely different wine, which can be drunk younger and is very approachable…and more affordable than the Barolos or even some of the rock star varietals. With this wine I feel like I’m in the hands of a master organic farmer more than a sophisticated vintner. I’m tasting the food from the land, more so than the wine from the vat.
My suggestion.
Find a bottle of Pasquale’s Barbaresco, a bottle of Bruno Pasquero ‘04 Nebbiolo D’Alba Vignadogna and one of Cappellano ‘05 Langhe Nebbiolo D’Alba, bring over some friends, a chunk of cheese and a Caprese salad and take a taste trip through the countryside of the Piedmont.
This is a guaranteed fun geography lesson.
Available online and from Chambers Street Wines for $35 a bottle.
